28 November, 2007

Ireland's County Wicklow

County Wicklow is an often overlooked county in Ireland. If you are planning a trip to Ireland take a closer look. County Wicklow is just south of Dublin and holds the promise of something for everyone, from historic country homes and gardens to scenic mountain views and quaint little picture book villages.

Starting in the northwest corner, there are two of the finest Palladian mansions in all of Ireland, Castletown and Russborough House. Both houses are rich in architectural detail such as Rococo stucco work , grand staircases, finely worked Italian fireplaces and imposing doorways. Art and antiques also abound with the Beit Art collection in Russborough house being one of the finest masters collection in the country. With Castletown's first ownership being William Connolly a former speaker of the Irish parliament and Russborough built for the Earl of Milltown many insights into Irish history are offered to those whose interests lie in that direction.



After all that art and history your next day should take you across the mountains for breathtaking views and fresh Irish air. One of the main roads through the mountains is the military road built by the British to allow them easy access to flush out the Irish rebels. A rugged landscape, empty and wide with vast colorful expanses of bog dotted with streams and pools. You'll pass places like Sally Gap and Glenmacnass where the road drops into a glen and a waterfall spills over the rocks. In the distance you will be awed by giant Sugar Loaf Mountain. As you near the mountain you'll see the signs for Powerscourt and the Powerscourt Waterfall.

Although Powerscourt is a mere shell of it's former self, this is another stop worth taking. Currently the Palladian mansion which burned in a 1974 fire is being carefully restored. However the gardens have always remained in tact and are the finest in all of Ireland. They are truly a magnificent set against the backdrop of Sugar Loaf Mountian. Lunch or tea overlooking this view is a must. As you head south the next stop should be the Vale of Avoca-- a beautiful gentle valley at the edge of the rivers Avonmore and Avonberg. Here you can see the "Meeting of the Waters" a lovely park where the rivers meet. Continuing further down the road is the handweavers hamlet of Avoca. The location of the fictional TV town Ballykissangel. This is the perfect spot for an overnight stay, giving you time to tour the Avoca Handweavers mill and listen to some Irish music in the evening in the pub of the nearby hotel.

Two other sites worth visiting in the area is Glendalough and Avondale House. Glendalough is home to one of Ireland's most atmospheric monastic sites. Founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, the bulk of the existing buildings are 8th to 12th century. You get a glimpse of life long ago, and enjoy a great outing to hike along the lakes as you pass through history. Avondale House is the home of the great Irish patriot and politician Charles Stewart Parnell. It fast forwards you to the 19th century and lets you get acquainted with the man who led the fight for Home Rule.

Beauty, history, gardens and countryside, mixed with Ireland's colorful historic personalities makes a trip to county Wicklow one with many fond memories.

17 November, 2007

ART AND THEATER IN LONDON

As it's cold in London now, indoor activities seem to make the most sense. On Nov. 14th we headed to the Tate Britain for the Millais Exhibition. And what a superb exhibition it was. Anyone with a love for 19th century British art and particularly the pre-Raphaelites should not miss this opportunity. The collection spans the full career of John Everett Millais including paintings, sketches, props, even his easel, all laid out in an informative manner. It was a visual sight to behold. This exhibit will be there until Jan. 13,2008 . We followed our viewing with a tasty lunch at the Tate's cafe then on to Somerset House for a look at the Gilbert Collection.

The Gilbert Collection is one of the great collections gifted to the country. It is housed in 17 galleries in Somerset House on the Strand. The Gilbert Collection was formed over four decades by the late Sir Arthur Gilbert who first started to collect English silver, attracted by its historical and decorative qualities. His passion for great craftsmanship then led him to collect Italian mosaics, gold boxes, portrait miniatures and Roman enamel mosaics, for which he coined the term micromosaic to evoke the painstaking skill of this demanding technique. After viewing this lovely collection we headed to the Aldwych Theater very near by.

The Aldwych is currently featuring the musical Dirty Dancing. True to the movie of the same name there are all the elements that made it a success. Great music, dancing and a hunk of a leading man. This is a show that will be continuing to be performed for some time, as I am informed they are currently booking into 2009. The play makes use of some interesting sets as well. They merge traditional props with video to create an effective visual experience. And the final number "Time of My Life" will truly stay with you for some time.

After the Theater we headed to Covent Garden for a little bit of Paris at Chez Gerard's for a steak and pomme frites dinner. Want to learn more about London. See our London pages at The Savvy Traveler.