A Great Day in Paris: Visit the Marais

When you arrive in Paris, it is often an overwhelming experience. Rushing from monuments to major museums, gets you to see the sights but not always feel the pulse of the city and its people. Part of the fun of travel is imagining everyday life in your new destination, and a good way to do that in Paris is in the Marais area. The Marais is located on the right bank opposite Ile St. Louis.

Here you will find a few of the medieval buildings left in Paris, beautiful 18th century mansions, interesting museums, fascinating art galleries and a treasure trove of antiques. The area is populated with Jews, Asians, and Algerians. The historic Place des Vosges, a beautifully architected square of fashionable pink brick buildings trimmed in beige with a stone arcade walk way beneath, is the highlight of the neighborhood. The square surrounds a lovely green park and makes for an inviting view from the restaurant tables sitting outside under the colonnades. The square is filled with art galleries, restaurants, specialty shops, the scrumptious Hotel Pavillon de la Reine and the home of the great writer Victor Hugo. Plan the Place as a spot for lunch or dinner where cozy restaurants with timbered ceilings and stone walls let you feel the real Paris as you smell the aromas and taste the spices that make a meal in France special. The Ma Bourgogne restaurant is a good bet.

A short walk from the Place are some interesting museums reflecting the eclectic feel of the Marais. The Museum Carnvalet will give you a good glimpse into the history of Paris and life from the inside of her Paris homes. The Musee Cognacq-Jay is a beautiful 16th century home housing the fine 18th century collection of art, antiques and decorative arts given to the city by the founders of La Samaritaine department store. A palatial 17th century home is the setting for the Musee Picasso said to be the largest collection of his work in the world. And reflecting the Asian influence here you can also visit the Musee Kwok-On which is devoted to the art of Oriental theatre.

For those interested in antiques, the Village St. Paul near the river is a must see. Here over 100 antique dealers are clustered around the narrow cobblestone courtyards of the Marais. Everything from china to country-style furniture is available for sale. The streets to check out include Rue des Jardins St.Paul, Rue Charlemagne, Ru St. Paul and the quai des Celestins.

In order to get the best detail on the history, people and places in the Maris, a Two Hour Walking Tour is available by an experienced English speaking guide. You will take an easy stroll through the area and learn about life through the centuries, things that took place in little out of the way courtyards as well as the duels in the famous Place des Vosges. So don’t miss the real Paris, see the Marais.

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Review: Holiday Inn Paris Saint Germain des Pres

We've tried lots of hotels in Paris, and this is one of our favourites. There are many more quaint hotels to choose from in Paris, but if you want a good clean air conditioned room with good service and lots of amenities the Holiday Inn Paris Saint Germain des Pres cannot be beat. For those who want to do business or just can't drag themselves away from the worldwide web, there is wireless internet available in the lobby and wired access in the rooms. (Pricy, but if you need it, it's there.) In the St. Germain area, it is a short block from the St. Placide Metro station and therefore very convenient to anywhere you may want to go. The rooms are small, but normal for Paris standards, and the staff are helpful. There is a good breakfast buffet, however we love the little cafe on the corner down the street and got along well with the staff. This hotel is good value for the money (in fact our rate turned out to be even less than advertised!) and highly recommended.

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Visit London...Anyway!

Living in the UK during the recent London bombings has been an emotional but somehow uplifting experience for us. Emotional, obviously because of the range of emotions that we experienced during and after the tragedy, but uplifting because of the almost uniform reaction of Londoners and the British people in general. As I sit here watching the final debris being removed from the bus which was exploded now 2 weeks ago, I am struck by the "business as usual" attitude in the square. And, in fact it has been that way from as early as the Monday following the incidents.

The emotions we experienced began with memories of 9/11 - as the breadth of the tragedy began to unfold, we could not help but recall watching similar scenes of a much greater magnitude on that fated day. Afterwards came the frustration of knowing that whenever we go into London we will have to alter our routes around the stations and lines that will be shut down for some time to come. Then came the anger at these seemingly normal young men who felt so passionately about their "cause" that they were willing to take not only their own lives but those of their fellow citizens to prove their point. But finally, there was a sadness that people who were born and raised in the UK having all the opportunities this wonderful country has to offer could be so "duped" into causing all this tragedy.

There are still some disruptions in the tube services, and although I have not seen any figures, I am sure at least some people are staying away because of what happened. But overall, we have been struck with the positive response by the average folks just wanting to get on with it. This is exemplified nowhere better than on the We are Not Afraid website, where many people are buying t-shirts and other reminders to those misguided people who feel they must kill themselves and others for their cause.

But it was most uplifting to see the reaction of the Muslim community. One of the greatest things about the UK is the wide diversity of races and religions represented here. And, for the most part everyone gets along quite well. There is a general feeling of tolerance of other peoples' beliefs, and there is an obvious interest in the various cultures as demonstrated by the popularity of films like "Bend it Like Beckham" and others. This give and take attitude is healthy and has contributed to many positive statements from local Muslim leaders and even people on the street who are as mystified by this kind of behavior as we non-Muslims are.

There is a great lesson to be learned from this. America is still the greatest melting pot in the world, but somewhow I believe that we have lost some of the tolerance of other people's views that we once had. We need to get that back in order to understand how these things could happen. Knee-jerk reactions almost never lead to satisactory conclusions - it takes understanding and dialogue to begin to make any real headway.

Enough from our soapbox - this site is supposed to be about travel and this article specifically about travel to London. So like Nike says, "Just Do It!". Show these extremists that they cannot change our way of life. Experience the beauty and splendor of this world-class city. Come to London this summer - you will not regret it!

The Queen's Gallery

Many people flock to Buckingham Palace for the summer opening and walk right past one of the other treasures of the crown - The Queen’s Gallery. Unlike Buckingham Palace, the Gallery is open year round. Reopened in 2002 for the Queen’s jubilee year, the newly remodeled Gallery is a beautiful venue in itself. The Queen’s Gallery was created to present different parts of the Royal Collection to the public with rotating exhibitions. These exhibitions are carefully organized to display the finest works of art complemented by furniture, sculpture, ceramics, jewelry, silver and gold. The Royal Collection reflects the taste of kings and queens over the past 500 years. And an exquisite taste it was, only the best antiques, paintings and sculptures have found their way there.

This year the Queen’s Gallery will be display the great Dutch Masters, 51 of the most outstanding examples of Dutch 17th century art. These are the artist who made the most of light and created some of the most memorable paintings in civilization. Rembrandt, Cuyp and Vermeer are just a few of the greats on display. The paintings include genre scenes, portraits, still lifes, historical paintings, landscapes and marine scapes. Entry to the Gallery is by timed ticket and should be purchased in advance. Upon entry you will receive an audio cassette which will enhance your understanding of all that you see.

So don’t pass up a chance to see more of the collection than the Palace can hold, visit the Queen’s Gallery anytime. And during the summer opening of Buckingham Palace, plan to spend the day at the Palace and see the Gallery and Mews as well.

The Irish Coffee Festival

This is a favorite time of year for Ireland. The summer months bring festivals and activities throughout the little towns in the countryside. One of our favorite festivals occurs this week in Foynes, county Limerick. Foynes is the home of Irish Coffee. It was here that the famous Pan Am Flying Boats used to land on their way to and from America. This is a particularly romantic era in the history of flight. Imagine dining at tables, relaxing in lounges and then retiring to your sleeping compartment as you cross the Atlantic, a level of luxury we don’t see today. Upon touching down on the river Shannon in Ireland, the passengers had to disembark, usually into a cold and misty outdoor terminal.

A clever chef at the airport terminal decided the passengers needed a bit of warming up beyond what regular coffee could give, and voila, Irish Coffee was born. That was over 60 years ago. And every year in Foynes they celebrate this delicious creation of Joe Sheridan at the Irish Coffee Festival. The festival kicks off on Friday July 15th and runs through Sunday the 17th . People come from around the world to compete in the Irish Coffee Championship with the winner selected on Saturday afternoon by an esteemed panel of judges.

In addition there will be music, dancing, parades, exhibits and an appearance by the most famous patron of the Flying Boat Museum, the actress Maureen O’Hara. The heart of the festival is the Flying Boat Museum in Foynes which is the old terminal for the Flying Boats back in the late 30’s and 40’s.

For those interested in enjoying Ireland the way the locals do, this is the perfect festival. There are many other sights to enjoy in the lower Shannon area as well. There is the pretty and colorful village of Adare, the Bunratty Castle and folk park, King John’s Castle in Limerick, the spectacular scenery at the Cliffs of Moher, the ruins at the Rock of Cashel, and the friendly people in the pubs and restaurants all along the river Shannon.

So if you find yourself in Ireland this week head to Foynes and enjoy an Irish coffee or two while you bask in all that is Irish!